Honolulu’s Late-August Surf Bender
I woke up bleary-eyed and dehydrated. I was nearly surfed-out, but I still had a few waves left in the tank. This was Saturday, August 9–or day 3 of Oahu’s early August south swell bender, and by all accounts, it was to be the largest of the bunch. I poked my head up from my friend’s couch, looking out his kitchen window down towards town and was met with lined up sets marching into and detonating on the local outer reefs.
Day 1 - Local Pros Shine
Friday had been very fun, but relatively tame swell-wise. The kind of “big day” that inspires more brazen confidence than quivering defeat. Rest-assured, local pros from Jeff Hubbard, to JOB, to the Rothmans were holding it down at Bowls–and rightfully so. But that wasn’t the only spot to score. As the swell filled in, all kinds of nooks and crannies started lighting up. Hell, Mikey February even made a surprise appearance at Three’s, putting on a clinic riding what looked like one of the boards for his upcoming Stab E.A.S.T. campaign. Hard to say for certain, but I can definitely confirm that he was dissecting waves with the deft touch of an all-too-casual jazz savant.
Day 2 - Atlantis Boat, Point Panic, Solid Surf
“Did you see it?”
“Better get in before it starts leaking oil.”
What are they talking about? And why is the parking lot overflowing? I thought to myself, as I made my way down the sidewalk to the corner at Point Panic.
Holy Atlantis. After nearly capsizing and taking out 2 surfers on a set wave, the 75’ tour boat had dry docked on the inside reef at Kewalo’s, right across the channel from Panics. People gawked at the boat, the waves, the bodysurfers at Panics–it was mayhem.
Sets continued to grow in size as the swell filled in. 5-6’ Solid Hawaiian, with some spots going beyond that. The Panics locals put on a bodysurfing showcase, with standouts including Kaleo Garlasa, Philip Kitamura, Keali’i Punley, Nick Menas, Dave Wassel, and more.
Day 3 - Summer & Beyond
The swell continued to pump through Sunday, with a few fun-size leftovers for those who could get away from work on Monday. Fingers crossed for one or two more big SPAC pulses before we turn our sights north for the winter.
