Honolulu’s Late-August Surf Bender

I woke up bleary-eyed and dehydrated. I was nearly surfed-out, but I still had a few waves left in the tank. This was Saturday, August 9–or day 3 of Oahu’s early August south swell bender, and by all accounts, it was to be the largest of the bunch. I poked my head up from my friend’s couch, looking out his kitchen window down towards town and was met with lined up sets marching into and detonating on the local outer reefs.